The complete book of essential oils and aromatherapy

Valerie Ann Worwood Biography

Valerie Ann Worwood is an aromatherapist, a reflexologist, a member of the London and counties society of Physiologists, and as Chairman of Research is an active member of the International Federation of Aromatherapists. She runs her own clinic in Romford, England, conducts research on aromatherapy and its effects on endometriosis and infertility, and is a consultant to several natural beauty and health clinics. In addition, she lectures all over the world on the benefits of aromatherapy and essential oils.

Dr. Worwood has long been interested in natural medicines. Her study of essential oils was stimulated by her discovery of just how effective their medicinal qualities are, and this interest has led her to making a full exploration of all their life-enhancing qualities.


List of essential oils

Essential oils are volatile and liquid aroma compounds from natural sources, usually plants. They are not oils in a strict sense, but often share with oils a poor solubility in water. Essential oils often have an odor and are therefore used in food flavoring and perfumery. They are usually prepared by fragrance extraction techniques (such as distillation, cold pressing, or Solvent extraction). Essential oils are distinguished from aroma oils (essential oils and aroma compounds in an oily solvent), infusions in a vegetable oil, absolutes, and concretes. Typically, essential oils are highly complex mixtures of often hundreds of individual aroma compounds.

Agar oil or oodh, distilled from Agarwood (Aquilaria malaccensis). Highly prized for its fragrance.
Ajwain oil, distilled from the leaves of (Carum copticum). Oil contains 35–65% thymol.
Angelica root oil, distilled from the Angelica archangelica.
Anise oil, from the Pimpinella anisum, rich odor of licorice, used medicinally.
Asafoetida oil, used medicinally and to flavor food.
Balsam of Peru, from the Myroxylon, used in food and drink for flavoring, in perfumes and toiletries for fragrance, and in medicine and pharmaceutical items for healing properties.
Basil oil is used in making perfumes, as well as in aromatherapy.
Bay oil is used in perfumery; Aromatherapeutic for sprains, colds, flu, insomnia, rheumatism.
Bergamot oil, used in aromatherapy and in perfumes.
Black Pepper oil is distilled from the berries of Piper nigrum. The warm, soothing effect makes it ideal for treating muscle aches, pains and strains and promoting healthy digestion. [according to whom?]
Buchu oil, made from the buchu shrub. Considered toxic and no longer widely used.[citation needed] Formerly used medicinally.
Birch oil is aromatheapeutic for gout, Rheumatism, Eczema, Ulcers.
Camphor oil is used for cold, cough, fever, rheumatism, and arthritis.
Cannabis flower essential oil, used as a flavoring in foods, primarily candy and beverages. Also used as a scent in perfumes, cosmetics, soaps, and candles.
Calamodin oil or Calamansi Essential Oil comes from a citrus tree in the Philippines extracted via cold press or steam distillation.
Caraway oil, used a flavoring in foods. Also used in mouthwashes, toothpastes, etc. as a flavoring agent.
Cardamom seed oil, used in aromatherapy and other medicinal applications. Extracted from seeds of subspecies of Zingiberaceae (ginger). Also used as a fragrance in soaps, perfumes, etc.
Carrot seed oil, used in aromatherapy.
Cedar oil (or Cedarwood oil), primarily used in perfumes and fragrances.
Chamomile oil, There are many varieties of chamomile but only two are used in aromatherapy; Roman and German. Both have similar medicinal properties but German chamomile contains a higher level of azulin (an anti-inflammatory agent).
Calamus oil Used medicinally, in perfumery and (formerly) as a food additive
Cinnamon oil, used for flavoring and medicinally.
Cistus species.[which?]
Citron oil, used in Ayurvedic medicine and perfumery.
Citronella oil, from a plant related to lemon grass is used as an insect repellent, as well as medicinally.
Clary Sage oil, used in perfumery and as an additive flavoring in some alcoholic beverages.
coconut Oil: used for skin, foods and hair, it is regenerative

Clove oil, used as a topical anesthetic to relieve dental pain.[medical citation needed]
Coffee oil, used to flavor food.
Coriander oil
Costmary oil (bible leaf oil), formerly used medicinally in Europe; still used as such in southwest Asia.Discovered to contain up to 12.5% of the toxin β-thujone.
Costus root oil, used medicinally.
Cranberry seed oil, equally high in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, primarily used in the cosmetic industry.
Cubeb oil, used medicinally and to flavor foods.
Cumin oil/Black seed oil, used as a flavor, particularly in meat products. Also used in veterinary medicine.[medical citation needed]
Cypress oil, used in cosmetics and medicine.
Cypriol oil
Curry leaf oil, used medicinally and to flavor food.
Davana oil, from the Artemisia pallens, used as a perfume ingredient and as a germicide.[medical citation needed]
Dill oil, chemically almost identical to seed oil.[citation needed] High carvone content.
Elecampane oil, used in herbal medicine.
Elemi oil, used as a perfume and fragrance ingredient. Comes from the oleoresins of Canarium luzonicum and Canarium ovatum which are common in the Philippines.
Eucalyptus oil, historically used as a germicide. Commonly used in cough medicine, among other medicinal uses.[unreliable medical source?]
Fennel seed oil, used medicinally, particularly for treating colic in infants.[medical citation needed]
Fenugreek oil, used medicinally and for cosmetics from ancient times.
Fir oil[which?]
Frankincense oil, used for aromatherapy and in perfumes.
Galangal oil[which?], used medicinally and to flavor food.
Galbanum oil, used in perfumery.
Geranium oil, also referred to as Geranol. Used in herbal medicine, particularly in aromatherapy. Also used for hormonal imbalance, for this reason geranium is often considered to be "female" oil. Used in perfumery as well.
Ginger oil, used medicinally in many cultures, and has been studied extensively as a nausea treatment, where it was found more effective than placebo.
Goldenrod oil used in herbal medicine, including treatment of urological problems.
Grapefruit oil, extracted from the peel of the fruit. Used in aromatherapy. Contains 90% limonene.[citation needed]
Henna oil, used in body art. Known to be dangerous to people with certain enzyme deficiencies. Pre-mixed pastes are considered dangerous, primarily due to adulterants.
Helichrysum oil.
Hickory nut oil.
Horseradish oil.
Hyssop
Idaho-grown Tansy
Jasmine oil, used for its flowery fragrance.
Juniper berry oil, used as a flavor. Also used medicinally, including traditional medicine.
Laurus nobilis
Lavender oil, used primarily as a fragrance. Also used medicinally.
Ledum
Lemon oil, similar in fragrance to the fruit. Unlike other essential oils, lemon oil is usually cold pressed. Used medicinally, as an antiseptic, and in cosmetics.
Lemongrass. Lemongrass is a highly fragrant grass from India. In India, it is used to help treat fevers and infections. The oil is very useful for insect repellent.
Lime, anti septic, anti viral, astringent, aperitif, bactericidal, disinfectant, febrifuge, haemostatic, restorative and tonic.
Litsea cubeba oil, lemon-like scent, often used in perfumes and aromatherapy.
Linaloe
Mandarin
Marjoram
Melaleuca See Tea tree oil
Melissa oil (Lemon balm), sweet smelling oil used primarily medicinally, particularly in aromatherapy.
Mentha arvensis oil, Mint oil, used in flavoring toothpastes, mouthwashes and pharmaceuticals,[medical citation needed] as well as in aromatherapy and other medicinal applications.
Moringa oil, can be used directly on the skin and hair. It can also be used in soap and as a base for other cosmetics.
Mountain Savory
Mugwort oil, used in ancient times for medicinal and magical purposes. Currently considered to be a neurotoxin.[medical citation needed]
Mustard oil, containing a high percentage of allyl isothiocyanate or other isothiocyanates, depending on the species of mustard
Myrrh oil, warm, slightly musty smell. Used medicinally.
Myrtle
Neem oil or Neem Tree Oil
Neroli is produced from the blossom of the bitter orange tree.
Nutmeg oil
Orange oil, like lemon oil, cold pressed rather than distilled. Consists of 90% d-Limonene. Used as a fragrance, in cleaning products and in flavoring foods.
Oregano oil, contains thymol and carvacrol, making it a useful fungicide. Also used to treat digestive problems.[unreliable medical source?]
Orris oil is extracted from the roots of the Florentine iris (Iris florentina), Iris germanica and Iris pallida. It is used as a flavouring agent, in perfume, and medicinally.
Palo Santo
Parsley oil, used in soaps, detergents, colognes, cosmetics and perfumes, especially men's fragrances.
Patchouli oil, very common ingredient in perfumes.
Perilla essential oil, extracted from the leaves of the perilla plant. Contains about 50–60% perillaldehyde.
Pennyroyal oil, highly toxic. It is abortifacient and can even in small quantities cause acute liver and lung damage.[medical citation needed]
Peppermint oil, used in a wide variety of medicinal applications.
Petitgrain
Pine oil, used as a disinfectant, and in aromatherapy.
Ravensara
Red Cedar
Roman Chamomile
Rose oil, distilled from rose petals, Used primarily as a fragrance.
Rosehip oil, distilled from the seeds of the Rosa rubiginosa or Rosa mosqueta. Used medicinally.
Rosemary oil, distilled from the flowers of Rosmarinus officinalis. Used in aromatherapy, topically to sooth muscles, and medicinal for its antibacterial and anti-fungal properties.[unreliable medical source?]
Rosewood oil, used primarily for skin care applications. Also used medicinally.
Sage oil, used medicinally.

The spice star anise is distilled to make star anise oil
Sandalwood oil, used primarily as a fragrance, for its pleasant, woody fragrance.
Sassafras oil, from sassafras root bark. Used in aromatherapy, soap-making, perfumes, and the like. Formerly used as a spice, and as the primary flavoring of root beer, inter alia. Sassafras oil is heavily regulated in the United States due to its high safrole content.
Savory oil, from Satureja species. Used in aromatherapy, cosmetic and soap-making applications.
Schisandra oil, used medicinally.
Spearmint oil, often used in flavoring mouthwash and chewing gum, among other applications.
Spikenard, used medicinally.
Spruce has calming and elevating properties. It can be used as a topical application for muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, and rheumatism. Spruce Oil has also been used to improve breathing conditions of asthma, bronchitis, coughs, and general weakness.[medical citation needed]
Star anise oil, highly fragrant oil using in cooking. Also used in perfumery and soaps, has been used in toothpastes, mouthwashes, and skin creams. 90% of the world's star anise crop is used in the manufacture of Tamiflu, a drug used to treat influenza, and is hoped to be useful for avian flu
Tangerine
Tarragon oil, distilled from Artemisia dracunculus, used medicinally.
Tea tree oil, extracted from Melaleuca alternifolia. Promoted for medicinal use, but with limited evidence of effectiveness.
Thyme oil, used medicinally.
Tsuga belongs to the pine tree family. It is used as analgesic, antirheumatic, blood cleanser, and stimulant. It treats cough, respiratory conditions, kidney ailments, urinary infections.[medical citation needed]
Turmeric, used medicinally[medical citation needed] and to flavor food.
Valerian is used for insomnia, migraines, nervous dyspepsia, and dandruff.
Warionia, used as a perfume ingredient among local women
Vetiver oil (khus oil) a thick, amber oil, primarily from India. Used as a fixative in perfumery, and in aromatherapy.
Western red cedar
Wintergreen can be used as an analgesic, anodyne, anti rheumatic & anti arthritic, anti spasmodic, anti septic, aromatic, astringent, carminative, diuretic, emenagogue and stimulant.[medical citation needed]
Yarrow oil is used medicinally to relieve joint pain.[medical citation needed]
Ylang-ylang is used for calming, antiseptic, and aphrodisiac purposes, as well as hypertension and skin diseases.[medical citation needed]
Zedoary, used medicinally and to flavor food.



AROMATHERAPY
JENNIFER PETERSON, HHP
School of Healing Hands
AROMATHERAPY COURSE OUTLINE
1. INTRODUCTION, instructor and course.
2. SOURCES – BOOKS, WEBSITES, ETC…
3. WHAT IS AROMATHERAPY? Definitions, education,
certification, NAHA, publications etc…
4. AROMATHERAPY HISTORY
5. BRANCHES OF AROMATHERAPY AND
PHYTOTHERAPY
6. WHAT ARE ESSENTIAL OILS?
7. WHERE ARE THE OILS EXTRACTED
FROM Part of the plant. Gumbel.
8. HOW DO THE ESSENTIAL OILS AFFECT
US? General, body, mind, spirit etc..
9. PROPERTIES OF ESSENTIAL OILS. Specific.
Psycho aromatherapy, environmental fragrancing
10. OLFACTION Application : absorbtion, excretion. Dermal, oral,
inhalation.
11. HOW ARE ESSENTIAL OILS USED?
12. METHODS OF EXTRACTION – YIELDS
13. CARRIER OILS.
14. PLANT FAMILIES/SCIENTIFIC NAMES/
CHEMOTYPES
15. BLENDING. Hands on. Notes, factors, ratios etc… Make one blend
for self in 10 ml glass bottle.
16. CONSULTATION AND ASSESSMENT
17. MAKING AROMATHERAPY PRODUCTS.
Hands on. Make 2 8 oz products of blend from consultation of
classmate. Salts, shower gel, body cream.
18. CHEMISTRY
19. QUALITY/SAFETY/PRECAUTIONS/DRUG
INTERACTIONS/ETHICS
20. OILS FOR SPECIFIC CONDITIONS/
BODY SYSTEMS
21. Aroma infusion body wrap or Dry Brush Massage
with aromatherapy. Hands-on.
22. Throughout the course we will be passing around
many different essential oils for the experience of
the students. In depth discussion will take place
on many aspects of each of the oils.

AROMATHERAPY SOURCES
BOOKS :
The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy , Salvatore Battaglia
Aromatherapy for Dummies, Kathi Keville
500 Formulas for Aromatherapy , Carol and David Schiller
Complete Aromatherapy Handbook , Susanne Fischer-Rizzi
The Art of Aromatherapy , Robert Tisserand
A consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients , Ruth Winter M.S.
Aromatherapy for Health Professionals, Shirley and Len Price
Scents & Scentuality , Valerie Ann Worwood
The Fragrant Heavens The Spiritual Dimension of Fragrance and
Aromatherpay Valerie Ann Worwood
The Complete Book of Essential Oils & Aromatherapy V. A. Worwood
The Fragrant Mind , Valerie Ann Worwood
Aromatherapy, Essential Oils in Color , Rosemary Caddy
Portraits in Oils , Philippe Mailhebiau
Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit , Gabriel Mojoy
Subtle Aromatherapy , Patricia Davis
Carrier Oils , Len Price
Aromatherapy Workbook , Marcel Lavabre
Aromatherapy Scent Psyche , Peter Kale Damien
Life Tree , John Steele
The Encyclopedia of Aromatherapy Chrissie Wildwood
Aromatherapy – A Complete Guide to the Healing Art Kathi Keville ,
Mindy Green
Healing Oils of the Bible Sewart, David, PhD.
Essential Oils Pocket Reference Life Science Publishing ( ORAC )
OILS/SOURCES AND OTHER PRODUCTS :
Oshadhi USA www.oshadhiusa.com
Aromaland www.aromaland.com
Tisserand www.tisserandshop.com
Meadows – www.meadowsaroma.com
Elizabeth Van Buren www.elizabethvanburen.com
E.D. Luce Packaging www.essentialsupplies.com
Universal Companies www.universalcompanies.com ESS oils
Absolute Aromas www.absolute-aromas.com
The Essential Oil Company www.essentialoil.com
Simplers www.simplers.com
Mountain Rose Herbs www.mountainroseherbs.com
Aura Cacia www.auracacia.com Sprouts, Mothers, Whole Foods ( see
Chakra section of site )
New Directions Aromatics www.newdirectionsaromatics.com
Lotus Touch – New Life Systems.com
NOW Aromatherapy – Sprouts/Mothers
WEBSITES For Topics
Stress-free-mama.com/ways-to-use-essential-oils/ Internal use of oils
East-West school for Herbal and Aromatic Studies – “Internal Use of
Essential Oils, an Exploration” Internal use of oils
Everything Essential – me. Applying oils- Ingestion Internal use of oils
Eoconnect.com/oils/ORACSCALE.aspx ORAC scores for oils
www.therapeutic-grade.com/refs/orac.html ORAC scores for oils
www.yleo-oils.com/orac.html ORAC Scores for oils.

WHAT IS AROMATHERAPY???
Aromatherapy is a holistic treatment, utilizing essential
oils extracted from aromatic plants to create balance
and harmony to the body, mind and spirit.
Aromatherapy is the skilled use of essential oils, which
have been extracted from flowers, spices, fruits, woods
and leaves for their esthetic, psychological and
medicinal applications.
Aromatherapy treatments are to create balance and
harmony taking into consideration your client’s state of
well-being, occupation, stress, nutrition, state of mind
and all aspects of the client’s life.
Fragrance is all around, everywhere everyday. We take
it for granted. Scent may be commonplace, but it
greatly enhances life. It also does a lot more!
Aromatherapy is a therapy, that uses aroma for healing.
It works on many levels. It can treat emotional as well
as physical problems and can help you think better and
improve your athletic performance. It can even improve
your love life!!!
Aromatherapy may conjure up the idea of a mystic art
or hocus pocus, but you will discover in this course that
aromatherapy is a concrete science with a scientific
basis.

AROMATHERAPY EDUCATION
There is no licensing for aromatherapy. Certifications
are done through the schools.
NAHA National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy
A non-profit educational organization out of Boulder,
Colorado.
They have a certification courses that they approve at
different schools and an exam that is a certification as
well, not a license. Special requirements. Page 42 NAHA
Journal.
NAHA publishes the Aromatherapy Journal
www.naha.com a quarterly publication.
Other Publications :
CFA Aromatherapy Journal
www.aromascentsjournal.com.
Aromatherapy Today Journal
www.aromatherapytoday.com.
International Journal of Clinical Aromatherapy
www.ijca.net.
The Herb Quarterly www.herbquarterly.com
NAHA’S TOP TEN ESSENTIAL OILS
Different aromas have a variety of effects on a client – from relaxation
to stimulation to euphoria. Here are the top 10 essential oils used in
aromatherapy and their unique healing benefits, according to the
National Association of Holistic Aromatherapy:
Clary Sage – ( salvia sclarea ) A natural pain killer that’s calming, soothing
and can help with insomnia. It also balances hormones.
Eucalyptus ( eucalyptus glubulus or radiata ) Treats respiratory problems
such as coughs, colds and asthma. It boosts the immune system and relives
muscle tension.
Geranium ( pelargonium graveolens )Balances hormones, skin tone and
texture – particularly in women. Its scent is relaxing, uplifting and
antidepressant.
Lavender ( lavandula augustifolia ) Calming, relieves tension, and can be
used to treat wounds, burns and imbalanced skin. Lavandula vera ( from a
different plant ) balances hormones in women and is anti-inflammatory,
relaxing, uplifting and antidepressant.
Lemon ( citrus limon ) The scent is energizing, but also relaxing. Antiseptic
and antibacterial, it’s used topically to treat wounds, infections, and as a
cleaning and deodorizing agent.
Peppermint ( menthe piperita ) Used to treat head and muscle aches, and
digestive disorders.
Rosemary ( rosmarinus officinalis ) Stimulates the mind and immune
system, relieves muscle aches and tension, and aids the digestive system.
Tea Tree ( melaluca alternifolia ) Naturally antifungal, it can topically treat
conditions such as vaginal yeast infections, jock itch, athlete’s foot and
ringworm. Its scents also boosts the immune system.
Ylang-Ylang (cananga odorata ) Induces relaxation, relieves muscle
tension and serves as an antidepressant.

Perfume resources 2016 December

The Frequently Asked Questions contains just that: questions about perfume, such as what is an Eau de Toilette or how long will my perfume last.

The Perfume Links page contains links to other useful perfume sites. To find other perfume blogs, check out the blogroll on the right column of this page.

Other useful pages: index of Perfume Reviews, list of New Perfumes, index of Fragrance Awards, index of Perfume Book Reviews, General Perfume Articles, Complete Tag Index.

Is there an online resource to find similar perfumes?

With access to materials, information and creative inspiration you can find everything you need for your perfume project.
I remember how devastated I was when my favorite perfume was discontinued back in the 1990s. It was brought back for a limited time last year, but I don't want to go searching on eBay once I finish the bottle I bought then. Is there an online perfume resource that can suggest scents that are similar, or at least something with the same notes?

The folks at the basenotes forum are an amazing resource.

You can search by note at The Perfumed Court. They specialize in samples of fragrances, so you can test-drive some possibilities before committing.
I really like the way Lucky Scent sorts their perfumes by style and note, and their descriptions are good. Decently priced samples, too.

Glossary

An A-Z of the common terms used in perfumery.
The definitions are geared towards their general usage in the perfumery industry. Comments and discussions are invited from readers about words they would like to see included, clarified or alternative definitions given.

Short Introduction to Perfumery

A short course in perfumery for pleasure or profit with around 20 pages.
This is also included in booklet form with additional information and demonstraion formulas with The Perfumery Training Kit.

The ABC's of Perfumery

A systematic odour classification groups for perfumery.

Raw Materials Overview

An overview of the main material groups used in perfumery

Recommended Perfumery Books

Recommended perfumery reference books for the serious student

A Perfume History Timeline
An illustrated history of perfumery



Recommend a Perfume : December 2016

This is our last “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread for the year. If you’ve used this feature before, we would love to hear what you discovered, and of course, if you need more help, please don’t hesitate to ask.  You can use this space to ask any questions about perfume, including fragrance recommendations, and of course, share your discoveries. Those who haven’t yet seen it, our Doctors Without Borders fundraiser has now 54 different prizes, including rarer than rubies Fendi Theorema, vintage Guerlain Mitsouko, and my perfume class. Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas to all of you!


holly

How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!

To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin



copyright by boisdejasmin.com

"You Have To Give, Give, Give" - Nathalie Lorson On Lalique, Le Labo & L'Oreal


Lalique's Encre Noire enjoys what you might call a god-like status in the perfume community. Not long after it emerged in 2006, its uncompromising, legible structure of vetivert and musks turned it into a must-have for scentusiasts hoping to add a bold, animalic, yet polished creation to their collections. It soon achieved a cult following. And it's now something of a modern classic, as seen by the fact that it made it to Number 12 on the Basenotes Top 500 last year. In 2009, the brand gave us a female version of the scent. 2013 saw the release of a 'Sport' edition. But towards the end of 2015, Lalique decided to return to the perfume's founding principles to put together an 'Extreme' flanker. The person they recruited for the task was the composer of the original, Nathalie Lorson of Firmenich, whose many credits include Cuir 28 for Le Labo, Autoportrait for Olfactive Studio and Black Opium for YSL.

When the veteran perfumer - who has worked alongside the likes of Jean-Louis Sieuzac and the "fantastic" Sophia Grojsman - popped into London for the launch of Encre Noire À L'Extrême, I took her back to the 2006 release and asked her whether its formula really is as simple as it seems.

Nathalie Lorson: Yes, it is. Vetivert and musks. But there are different facets of the vetivert. For example, natural vetivert has a grapefruit effect. So I reinforced it with some grapefruit. I played with different facets of the vetivert.

Persolaise: Did you have any idea the scent would turn out to be so successful?

NL: No, because Lalique was not such a well known brand in perfumery. What I wanted when I made Encre Noire was to do something different. I have a lot of money when I work for Lalique. So I used some quantities and qualities of expensive ingredients I cannot normally use anywhere else. When I got the brief for the men's perfume, I wondered which wood I could use for men. I thought vetivert was very interesting, because it was used very often, but in a cologne, with citrus. I wanted to do something different. I wanted to use the vetivert for its woody facet.

P: Was Encre Noire difficult to make?

NL: Yes, it was very difficult, because it is a very simple formula, so you have to have good quality and good proportions. It was difficult to adjust everything. And it was really very different from what you had on the market 10 years ago. And the client dared to go with it.

P: I hear from perfumers that the pace of work at the major companies is extremely hectic at the moment. Would you agree with that?

NL: Yes, but it depends on the client. Not all clients are the same. For example, Lalique gives us more time. It's not so rushed. But with L'Oreal [for whom Lorson made YSL Black Opium], on each day, you have to make some mods. It's completely different.

P: You've made a few compositions with Le Labo. What's it like working with them?

NL: It's very interesting, because they don't care about the price, a little bit like Lalique. You can really play with the ingredients you want. It's freedom for us. It's real team work. Very free.

P: Do you think the situation will be different now that they've been bought by Estée Lauder?

NL: Sure. It will have to be different. Before it was just two guys. It's not the same now.

P: You made Black Opium as part of a team, together with Marie Salamagne, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc. How does that set-up work?

NL: We worked for four years on Black Opium. As you can imagine, you can't work by yourself for four years on one perfume. And with L'Oreal you have to give, give, give. They wanted to have an American vision, because it was a very big project and the USA is very important. So at the end, they asked me to work with an American perfumer.

P: What's an "American vision", olfactively?

NL: I don't know. Maybe it's not olfactive. Maybe it was just reassuring for the client to have someone who succeeded in the US.

P: But in practical terms, how does the team arrangement work? Do you each work on separate components?

NL: No, we smell together. The starting point was my idea. And for example, the client may say, "It's not strong enough. It's not floral enough." Each of us made some experiments. Then we smell together and choose what we prefer. And then we show the client one or two versions. And then we continue from the version the client prefers. Working in a team can be very enriching, but the thing is that you must not lose your own idea, because if there are too many people, one will go one way, and another one another way, and you lose your idea.

P: If a perfumer was tired when they were working on a project, do you think you can smell that in the final product?

NL: Yes, you can sometimes. Sometimes, you can see that if they had had more time, they could have finished the perfume better, and created a better harmony between the ingredients. But sometimes, the problem isn't time. It depends. Sometimes it's the people you have in front of you. They have to agree on what you're making. They are clients. I am not an artist. I have to work for someone else. So I have to find a way to not be frustrated and to make my client happy.

P: On how many perfumes are you usually working at any given time?

NL: I have 10 or 15 projects on my desk. It's a lot, but I don't work at the same level on each of them. At the end of a project, if you really want to concentrate, and really be 'inside' your project, it's difficult.

P: Would you have liked to have been an in-house perfumer for a single brand?

NL: No. It's too narrow. At the beginning it would be okay, but then you would be alone. And you need to work for different brands on completely different things to have open eyes. For example, on my desk, I see all the different projects for the different brands. I get a feeling for the trends.

P: So, you think your work would have suffered?

NL: I'm sure. I think it's very interesting to have an open vision, to see differences, to work with Lalique or Le Labo or Lauder.

P: With which perfumer would you have loved to work?

NL: Edmond Roudnitska. Eau Sauvage is fantastic.

P: What do you think he'd say if he saw you in your Firmenich lab?

NL: Oh, I'm sure he would say we are completely crazy. We don't have time to do the right maceration.

P: Finally, I've always wondered: how does it feel if you've made several modifications of a perfume - possibly hundreds - and then suddenly the client turns around and says, "You know what, Nathalie. I really love version number 4." Is that frustrating?

NL: It depends. If I agree that number 4 was the best, then no problem. But sometimes, a client goes back to an early version which was not good. That happened to me one time. The client said, "I want that." It was a flop. And it had my name. I'm not the one who decides what is chosen, but it has my name.

--
Persolaise




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